How to Care for a Jumping Spider

Caring for a jumping spider means recreating the basics it needs to climb, hide, drink, hunt, and molt safely. Before bringing one home, identify the species if possible: adult size, preferred humidity, and temperature can vary. The steps below suit many commonly kept jumping spiders, but species-specific care guidance should take priority.

What You’ll Need

A secure, escape-resistant enclosure with cross-ventilation; a small arboreal enclosure is usually more practical than a large tank.
Safe climbing features such as cork bark, sturdy twigs, and artificial or pesticide-free plants.
A small water mister and clean drinking water. Avoid open water dishes deep enough to trap a small spider.
Appropriately sized live feeder insects, such as flightless fruit flies for tiny juveniles or small crickets and flies for larger spiders.
A soft paintbrush or small tongs for moving enclosure items and removing leftover prey.
A thermometer and, when appropriate for the species, a hygrometer to monitor conditions without guessing.

Step-by-Step

Choose a suitable enclosure. Pick a small, tall enclosure with a secure lid and fine ventilation that cannot let the spider or feeder insects escape. Jumping spiders often build a silk retreat near the top, so make sure there is usable height and do not place a door where it will repeatedly destroy that retreat when opened. Check that there are no gaps around vents or closures.
Set up climbing and hiding places. Add stable branches, cork, or other clean surfaces reaching toward the upper part of the enclosure. Leave enough open space to observe the spider and remove prey. Secure decorations so they cannot fall, and avoid sharp edges, sticky materials, or plants treated with pesticides. Do not overcrowd the habitat.
Match warmth and humidity to the species. Keep the enclosure in a room with a stable, comfortable temperature, away from direct sun, heaters, air-conditioning blasts, and drafts. Direct sunlight can overheat a small enclosure quickly. Mist a small area of the wall or a surface lightly when needed so droplets are available to drink, while allowing the enclosure to dry between mistings. Do not keep it constantly wet or rely on one humidity target for every species.
Let the spider settle in. After placing it in the enclosure, give it time to explore and make a silk retreat. Keep handling and unnecessary opening to a minimum, especially during the first days. A spider that hides is not necessarily in trouble; provide cover and observe from outside rather than repeatedly disturbing it.
Offer suitable live prey. Feed prey smaller than the spider or no larger than its body, and choose a feeder appropriate to its size and species. Remove uneaten insects after a short period, and never leave a live cricket with a spider that is resting or molting: prey can injure a vulnerable spider. Feeding frequency varies with age, size, temperature, and appetite, so offer food when the abdomen is not already plump rather than following a rigid daily schedule.
Provide drinking opportunities. Keep occasional small droplets available on the enclosure wall or a leaf. Mist lightly rather than soaking the substrate, and do not spray the spider directly. Make sure ventilation is adequate so moisture does not become stagnant, which can encourage mold and other problems.
Recognize a molt and leave it alone. A spider may stop eating, spend more time in its silk hammock, or become still before shedding its exoskeleton. This is a sensitive period. Remove any feeder insects you can reach without disturbing the retreat, but do not touch, move, spray, or try to pull the spider out. Wait until it has emerged and its new exoskeleton has had time to harden before offering prey again.
Clean gently and observe routinely. Remove dead prey, shed skins, and visible waste with a soft brush or tongs, taking care not to damage silk retreats. Replace contaminated substrate or furnishings as needed, without using household cleaners, scented products, or pesticides. Check that the lid is secure, the spider can reach droplets, and there is no mold or standing water.

Common Mistakes

Using an oversized or poorly ventilated enclosure: A spider may struggle to find prey in excessive open space, while stagnant damp air can create hygiene problems. Choose a manageable habitat with air flow and plenty of climbing surfaces.
Over-misting: Wet substrate and persistent condensation are not a substitute for suitable humidity. Mist lightly, allow surfaces to dry, and adjust to the species and room conditions.
Offering prey that is too large or leaving it inside: Large or unattended feeders can stress or injure a spider, especially during a molt. Remove prey that is not eaten.
Handling frequently: These small animals can fall or escape during handling. Observation is safer; if moving one is essential, use a catch cup and work close to a surface in a closed room.
Assuming a quiet spider is sick or dead: Resting, hiding, fasting, or preparing to molt can be normal. Look for context and changes over time, and contact a veterinarian experienced with invertebrates if you suspect injury or illness.

Tips

Research the spider’s species and life stage before setting a temperature, humidity, or feeding schedule.
Keep the enclosure away from pets, vibrations, smoke, aerosols, and strong household fragrances.
Use a simple care log to note feeding, molts, and unusual changes; it can help distinguish a normal pause in eating from a persistent change.
Make sure the enclosure is escape-proof before adding live prey, and open it only in a closed room.
Do not collect a wild spider for keeping unless you can identify it and understand local rules and the animal’s needs.

Troubleshooting

It will not eat: Check whether it is preparing to molt, recently molted, stressed by a new enclosure, or already well fed. Remove prey and offer a smaller, suitable item later; do not leave live insects inside indefinitely. If refusal persists or the spider appears injured or weak, contact a veterinarian experienced with invertebrates.

There is mold or a sour smell: Remove contaminated material, improve ventilation, and reduce misting. Check for dead feeder insects or damp food remains. Avoid chemical cleaners in the enclosure; if a full clean is needed, temporarily transfer the spider safely.

The spider keeps escaping or reaching the lid: Inspect every seam and vent for gaps, confirm the closure latches, and check whether furnishings create a route to an opening. Do not assume a tiny spider cannot pass through a small gap.

It looks stuck during a molt: Do not pull at the spider or its old exoskeleton. Keep conditions stable and the enclosure quiet. A difficult molt can be serious; contact an invertebrate-capable veterinarian rather than attempting a physical intervention.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I feed a jumping spider?

There is no single schedule that fits every spider. Offer appropriately sized prey based on its age, size, appetite, and abdomen condition, and remove uneaten insects rather than leaving them in the enclosure.

Does a jumping spider need a water bowl?

Usually, small droplets on a wall or leaf provide a safer drinking opportunity for a tiny spider. Avoid deep open dishes and do not let the enclosure remain waterlogged.

Can I handle my jumping spider?

It is generally safer to observe without handling. A fall can injure a small spider, and it may jump or escape; use a catch cup if you need to move it.

How can I tell if it is molting?

It may stop eating, retreat into a silk hammock, or remain still for an extended period. Leave it undisturbed and remove accessible prey without damaging the retreat.

Can jumping spiders live together?

Do not house them together as a routine care practice. They may injure or eat one another, so provide a separate secure enclosure for each spider.

Further reading: The American Tarantula Society. Details can change, so check the official page for anything that matters to you. Spotted a mistake? Tell us. How we write an answer.