How to Clean Nubuck Shoes Without Damaging the Nap

Cleaning nubuck removes loose dirt and many surface marks while helping preserve its soft, velvety nap. Nubuck is leather sanded on the grain side, so it can mark or change texture if it is soaked, scrubbed hard, or treated with ordinary shoe polish. Check the shoe’s care label first, and test any cleaner on a hidden spot before using it visibly.

What You’ll Need

A nubuck or suede brush, preferably with soft bristles; a combination brush is useful if it has a rubber or crepe side.
A nubuck eraser or clean, colorless pencil eraser for small dry marks.
A clean, dry microfiber cloth.
Nubuck-safe cleaner for stubborn dirt, if the care instructions allow it.
Paper towels or plain, unprinted paper to support the shoes while they dry.
Optional: a nubuck-safe water-and-stain protector for use after cleaning.

Step-by-Step

Check the care instructions. Look at the shoe label or manufacturer’s guidance, especially for colored, treated, or combination-material shoes. Some finishes need a specific product, and a cleaner suitable for nubuck may not be appropriate for smooth leather, fabric, or trim on the same shoe. If the instructions say not to use water or a cleaner, follow them.
Remove laces and loose dirt. Take out the laces so you can clean the tongue and edges without rubbing dirt into them. Tap the soles together gently outdoors, then use a dry cloth to lift grit from the upper. Avoid scraping with a fingernail or a sharp tool, which can cut or polish the surface.
Let wet mud dry first. If the shoes are muddy or damp, do not brush immediately. Blot excess moisture with a dry cloth, stuff the shoes loosely with unprinted paper to help them hold their shape, and let them dry at room temperature. Once the mud is fully dry, brush it away. Wet mud is easier to spread into the nap.
Brush in short, light strokes. Use the soft-bristle side of a nubuck or suede brush and work over the whole upper, not just the visible spot. Brush gently in one direction to remove dust, then use light back-and-forth strokes if the nap needs lifting. Keep pressure modest; vigorous brushing can flatten or roughen the finish.
Erase small dry marks. Rub a nubuck eraser gently over a scuff or dark surface mark, using short strokes and working from the edge toward the center. Brush away the eraser crumbs afterward. Do not press hard or keep rubbing one spot for a long time; stop if the color or texture begins to change.
Spot-clean only when needed. First test nubuck-safe cleaner on a concealed area and let it dry fully to check for color change. If the test looks acceptable, follow the product label. Usually, you apply a small amount to a cloth or the specified applicator, dab or gently work the mark, and avoid soaking the leather. Do not pour cleaner directly onto the shoe unless its directions specifically require it.
Allow an even dry. Blot any remaining dampness without rubbing. Leave the shoes in a ventilated place at room temperature, away from direct sun, radiators, hair dryers, and other heat. Keep paper inside if needed for shape, and replace it if it becomes damp. Let the upper dry completely before brushing again.
Restore the nap and protect the finish. Once dry, brush lightly to lift the nap and blend the cleaned area with the rest of the shoe. If desired, apply a protector labeled for nubuck, following its directions and testing first. Use it in a ventilated area, let it dry as directed, and re-lace the shoes only when everything is dry.

Common Mistakes

Using too much water: Saturation can leave water marks, stiffen leather, or make the color uneven. Use a barely damp cloth only when the product instructions call for it; do not rinse nubuck under a tap.
Applying ordinary polish or conditioner: Products for smooth leather can coat the nap and leave a shiny, greasy, or dark patch. Choose products specifically labeled for nubuck.
Scrubbing hard: Forceful brushing or erasing may flatten the nap or abrade the surface. Work gently and stop if the material starts to look different.
Using heat to speed drying: A heater, direct sun, or hair dryer can dry leather unevenly and may cause stiffness or distortion. Air-drying is slower but gentler.
Cleaning just one wet patch: Moisture can dry with a visible boundary. Avoid soaking the shoe; for a water mark, let it dry naturally and seek product-specific guidance rather than repeatedly wetting it.
Skipping the hidden test: Cleaners and protectors can affect dye or finish. Test first and allow the test patch to dry before deciding whether to continue.

Tips

Brush off dry dust after wearing the shoes; regular light care is safer than an aggressive deep clean.
Keep a separate brush for light and dark shoes so transferred dye or dirt does not stain another pair.
For a broad, greasy, or deeply set stain, consult the shoe maker or a cleaner experienced with nubuck. Home spot treatment may spread it.
Store shoes dry and away from direct sunlight. If they get wet, allow them to dry fully before putting them away.
Use a protector only if it is intended for nubuck, and reapply only as the label directs; excess product can change the feel or appearance.

Troubleshooting

The mark remains after brushing: Try a few gentle passes with a nubuck eraser. If it does not lift, stop rather than scrubbing harder; use a compatible cleaner only after a hidden-area test.
A water ring appears: Let the shoe dry completely at room temperature, then brush gently to blend the nap. Do not add more water to chase the ring unless the manufacturer recommends a specific method.
The cleaned area looks darker: It may still be damp, or the product may have changed the finish. Wait until it is fully dry before judging. If the color remains uneven, stop using products and ask the manufacturer or a nubuck specialist for advice.
The nap looks flat or shiny: Once dry, use a soft nubuck brush with very light strokes. If brushing does not restore the texture, avoid sanding or scraping; a professional may be able to assess the surface.
The shoe feels stiff after drying: Do not bend it forcefully or apply an unapproved conditioner. Brush gently when dry and check the care guidance; ask a specialist if stiffness persists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I clean nubuck shoes with water?

Use as little moisture as possible. A water-based cleaner may be suitable if it is labeled for nubuck and approved by the shoe’s care instructions, but soaking or rinsing can cause marks and damage.

Can I use a suede brush on nubuck?

Often, yes: nubuck and suede brushes are commonly made for delicate napped leather. Use a clean, soft brush and light pressure, and check the shoe maker’s directions for unusual finishes.

How do I remove grease from nubuck?

Blot fresh grease gently with a dry cloth without rubbing. Avoid household degreasers and water; for a persistent stain, use only a product specifically labeled for nubuck or contact a leather-cleaning specialist.

Can I put nubuck shoes in the washing machine?

No. Machine washing can soak, distort, or damage the leather and may affect adhesives and other materials. Clean the surface by hand according to the care instructions.

How often should I clean nubuck shoes?

Brush off dust and dry dirt whenever you notice it, and spot-clean only as needed. There is no fixed schedule; how often depends on wear and the conditions the shoes encounter.

Should I waterproof nubuck after cleaning?

You can use a protector labeled for nubuck if the shoe maker permits it. Test it first, apply it as directed in a ventilated space, and let the shoes dry fully before wearing.

Further reading: American Leather Chemists Association. Details can change, so check the official page for anything that matters to you. Spotted a mistake? Tell us. How we write an answer.