How to Fix a Leaky Hose Bib Without Guesswork

A hose bib, also called an outdoor faucet or spigot, can leak at the handle, the spout, or the connection to the house. Finding the exact source matters: a dripping spout often points to a worn washer or valve seat, while water around the handle usually means the stem packing needs attention. A leak at the wall may involve the supply pipe rather than the faucet.

Before you begin, locate the shutoff valve that controls the outdoor faucet. It may be inside the house, in a basement, crawl space, or utility area. If you cannot isolate the faucet, know where the main water shutoff is and make sure you can turn it off. For a frost-free hose bib, avoid forcing the stem or taking apart unfamiliar parts; follow its manufacturer’s instructions or get professional help if you are unsure.

What You’ll Need

Adjustable wrench and, if needed, a second wrench for holding the faucet body
Phillips or flathead screwdriver, depending on the handle screw
Replacement washer, packing, or vacuum-breaker parts matched to the faucet
Plumber’s grease labeled safe for potable-water plumbing
Rags, a small container, and a flashlight
Safety glasses and work gloves

Take the old part to a hardware or plumbing supply store to match its size and shape, or check the faucet’s brand and model. Hose bib designs vary, and a generic washer may not fit or seal properly.

Step-by-Step

Locate and close the shutoff. Turn off the valve supplying the hose bib. If there is no separate shutoff, turn off the home’s main water supply. Do not rely on the outdoor handle alone; water pressure can remain behind the stem.
Relieve pressure and protect the area. Remove the hose, if attached, and open the hose bib to drain remaining water. Put a container or rag below it. If the faucet is near electrical equipment, keep water away and do not proceed until the area is safe and dry.
Find where the leak starts. With the faucet dry, briefly restore water only if necessary to see the leak, then shut it off again before disassembly. A drip from the spout while the faucet is fully closed usually indicates a washer, seat, or cartridge problem. Water escaping around the handle suggests stem packing. A drip from the top of a built-in vacuum breaker may point to its internal parts. Water at the wall or beneath the faucet can indicate a pipe or connection leak.
Remove the handle. Confirm the water is off. Remove the handle screw, then lift the handle straight off. If it is stuck, use gentle, even pressure; do not pry hard against the wall or twist the pipe. Corrosion may require a handle puller or a plumber.
Remove the stem or packing nut as appropriate. For a compression-style faucet, use a wrench to loosen the packing nut, then turn the stem assembly out of the faucet body. Keep the faucet body steady with a second wrench where possible. Avoid bending or rotating the pipe in the wall. Some models use a cartridge or a separate vacuum-breaker assembly instead, so consult the product instructions before removing unfamiliar parts.
Replace the failed part. Inspect the washer at the end of the stem for splits, flattening, or hardness. Remove its retaining screw and fit an identical washer; do not overtighten the screw. If packing around the stem is worn, replace the packing or packing washer with the correct part. Clean loose debris from accessible surfaces. Do not file or aggressively scrape the valve seat, which can damage it.
Reassemble carefully. Apply a thin film of potable-water-safe plumber’s grease to the stem threads or seals if the manufacturer permits it. Refit the stem and tighten it snugly, not excessively. Reinstall the handle and its screw. If you removed a vacuum breaker, use the correct replacement and orientation; do not plug or bypass it, because it protects the water supply from backflow.
Restore water and check for leaks. Close the hose bib, then reopen the shutoff slowly. Watch the wall connection and handle while the line fills. Open and close the faucet, then leave it closed for several minutes and check whether the spout continues to drip. Tighten a packing nut only slightly if water seeps around the stem; too much force can make the handle difficult to turn or damage parts.
Drain and protect the faucet. Disconnect the garden hose before freezing weather, since a connected hose can trap water. If the faucet has an indoor shutoff and drain, follow its instructions to close the supply and drain the outdoor section. Frost-free faucets also need the hose removed so the barrel can drain as designed.

Common Mistakes

Replacing the wrong part: A washer will not fix a leak from a cracked pipe, failed vacuum breaker, or damaged valve seat. Trace the leak to its starting point first.
Forcing corroded fittings: Excessive force can twist the pipe inside the wall and turn a small repair into a concealed leak. Stop if the faucet body moves or the fitting will not loosen.
Overtightening: Cranking down a packing nut, stem, or handle screw can deform seals and make the faucet hard to operate. Tighten only enough to stop seepage.
Using the wrong sealant: Tape or general-purpose grease is not a substitute for the correct washer or packing. Use only materials intended for the faucet and potable-water plumbing.
Leaving a hose connected in freezing weather: Water trapped in the faucet can freeze and split the pipe, including inside the wall.

Tips

Photograph each layer as you take the faucet apart; this helps you reinstall parts in the right order.
Keep small screws and seals in a cup so they do not disappear into a drain or soil.
Match replacement parts by model when possible. Bring the old washer or cartridge with you if the model is unknown.
Do not assume every outdoor faucet works the same way. Compression, cartridge, frost-free, and vacuum-breaker designs have different service steps.
After the repair, check the faucet again later and after the next freeze. A slow leak can become more obvious once the line is under pressure.

Troubleshooting

The spout still drips after replacing the washer: The washer may be the wrong size, installed backward if its design is directional, or not seated correctly. The valve seat may be pitted, or the faucet may use a cartridge. Recheck the model and instructions; replace the damaged matching component rather than tightening the handle harder.

Water leaks around the handle: Tighten the packing nut a small amount and test. If seepage continues, replace the packing or stem seal. If tightening makes the handle stiff, back off slightly. Persistent leakage may mean the stem is worn.

The faucet leaks at the wall: Turn off the supply immediately. Water may be coming from a loose connection, a split pipe, or a failed frost-free faucet barrel. Because the leak can be concealed, do not keep testing it; call a plumber if the source is not plainly accessible.

The handle or stem will not come off: Corrosion can seize parts. Use a suitable handle puller rather than levering against the wall, and stop if the faucet body begins to turn. A plumber can remove it without stressing the supply pipe.

The leak appears only when a hose is attached: Check the hose washer and the threaded connection first. A damaged hose gasket can leak even when the faucet itself is sound. Replace the gasket or hose if needed, and avoid cross-threading the connection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I fix a hose bib without shutting off the water?

No. Shut off the supply and relieve pressure before removing the handle, stem, or other parts. Water can spray unexpectedly if the line remains pressurized.

Why does my hose bib drip after I turn it off?

A brief drip as water drains from the spout can be normal. A continuing drip usually indicates a worn washer, damaged seat, cartridge problem, or debris preventing a seal.

Can I use a washer from another faucet?

Only if it matches the size, thickness, and design exactly. The wrong washer may leak or damage the valve; match the part to the faucet model whenever possible.

Does a frost-free hose bib need winterizing?

It still needs the hose disconnected so water can drain from its barrel. If it has an indoor shutoff and drain, use them according to the faucet instructions; never leave a hose attached through freezing weather.

When should I call a plumber?

Call if the pipe or faucet body is cracked, the leak comes from inside the wall, the shutoff will not work, or removing parts risks twisting the supply pipe. Also get help when you cannot identify the faucet type or the repair does not stop the leak.

Further reading: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Details can change, so check the official page for anything that matters to you. Spotted a mistake? Tell us. How we write an answer.